Peptides show up on more skincare labels every year. Most people know they're supposed to be good for aging skin, but not much else.
We've been formulating with peptides for 30 years, so we have opinions. They're some of the most studied, best tolerated ingredients for firmness and fine lines, and they play well with almost everything else in a routine. Below is what they actually do, which types matter, and how to get real results from them.
The basics
What is a peptide?
A peptide is a short chain of amino acids, the same building blocks your body uses to make proteins like collagen and elastin. Collagen keeps skin firm. Elastin lets it bounce back.
Starting in our mid-twenties, skin makes a little less collagen every year. Sun exposure speeds that up. Over time the result is skin that looks thinner, less firm and more lined.
Many peptides in skincare work as messengers. When collagen breaks down, the fragments signal the skin to repair itself. Certain peptides send a similar signal, encouraging skin to keep doing what it did more easily when it was younger.
Not all the same
Three kinds of peptides
"Peptides" on a label can mean very different things. These are the three types you'll see most often, and each one has its own job.
Signal peptides
Rebuild
Tell skin to make more collagen and elastin. Best for firmness and fine lines over time.
You'll see: Matrixyl® (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-1)
Expression peptides
Relax
Soften the look of lines that come from movement, like forehead lines and crow's feet.
You'll see: Argireline® (acetyl hexapeptide-8)
Carrier peptides
Repair
Deliver minerals skin uses for healing. Copper peptides are the best known, supporting firmness and recovery.
You'll see: copper tripeptide-1
The strongest formulas combine more than one type, so skin gets a few different signals at once.
Peptides aren't a quick fix. Most people start to notice smoother, firmer skin after six to eight weeks of daily use.
Getting results
How to use peptides
Put them on clean skin
Peptides work best close to the skin, so apply your peptide serum right after cleansing and toning, before anything heavier.
Use them morning and night
Unlike retinol or strong acids, peptides don't make skin more sensitive to the sun. Twice a day is ideal.
Seal them in
Follow with a moisturizer to lock everything in. Many creams have their own peptides, which helps build up the effect.
Wear sunscreen
UV breaks down collagen faster than any serum can rebuild it. Daily SPF protects the work peptides are doing.
Where to start
Finding the right peptide for you
Here's how to choose, based on what you want to work on.
Our best-selling peptide product, and the easiest place to start. Matrixyl® and Argireline® soften the look of fine lines while hyaluronic acid floods skin with hydration. It's gentle enough for every skin type, which is also why so many estheticians use it with microneedling.
Learn More
Beyond the face
Peptides work just as well on the areas that show age first but get the least attention.
Questions we hear
Peptide FAQ
Are peptides OK for sensitive skin?
Usually, yes. Peptides are among the gentlest anti-aging ingredients, which makes them a good option for people who can't tolerate retinol or strong exfoliants.
Can I use peptides with retinol or vitamin C?
Peptides pair well with retinol, and the two cover different ground. With vitamin C, most peptides are fine. The one exception is copper peptides, which are best used at a different time of day than vitamin C or strong acids.
Are peptides the same as collagen?
No. Collagen in a cream is too large to sink into skin. Peptides are much smaller pieces that encourage your skin to make its own collagen, which is far more useful.
When should I start?
Anytime from your late twenties on is a good time. Peptides help prevent as well as repair, so starting early makes a difference.
Let a pro choose for you
A licensed esthetician can look at your skin, recommend the right peptides for your goals and pair them with a professional treatment for faster results.
Find a Lucrèce Professional